Why are exposed beams such a problem?  The sheet rock will often times stop short of the beam (as in the picture here).  The vapor barrier underneath will only be stapled.  This allows hot moist air into the roof cavity.  The moist air will pass through the fiberglass and condense (and freeze) as it reaches its dew point.  In the spring, when things warm up the ice melts and water runs down the beam.  What’s the solution?  Caulk or foam the gap between the sheetrock and the beam.  Install trim to finish the beam and make it look good.  This is a much less expensive project than the roof conversion that your roofing contractor might recommend!

You will generally lose heat from your home in one of two ways.  Either you will lose heat by heat transfering through a surface, or by hot air moving from the inside of the home to the outside through gaps and cracks.  Some insulations can stop both kinds of heat loss.  Various types of spray-foam, for example, act to impede both heat transfer as well as heat loss through air movement.  Spray-foam will expand and works its way into even the smallest of gaps to eliminate air movement.  Fiberglass, on the other hand, will only stop heat transfer.  It does very little to impede air movement.

Why is this an important distinction?  Often times, the ceiling will have areas that have fiberglass in place without anything to restrict air from moving through it.  A good example is a wall cavity with a top plate that is open to the attic.  Stuffing fiberglass into the space is not enough.  These areas should have spray foam applied to keep air from passing through.  The air that passes through will carry heat, as well as moisture into the attic and can result in mold, water, and ice problems.

“Ambiguous sapaces” are created when insulation is present but air is allowed to flow through to the other side.  An example is an attic that allows air from the home to flow into it through holes in the air barrier.  The temperature in the attic is supposed to be the same as the outside temperature, but the air from inside that passes into the attic raises the temperature and creates an”ambiguous spac”–not quite inside and not quite outside.

A contractor who specializes in weatherization and insulation can really help you navigate your way through the AHFC rebate program.  They will have the experience to help you decipher the recommended upgrades.  Even if they don’t provide all of the services, they will likely understand how all of the different components work together.

A good weatherization contractor will have detailed knowledge about insulation types, R-values, and proper application techniques.  They should have a blower door to measure leakage, to help find air leaks, and to verify that they have accomplished the CFM reduction that was necessary to fulfill the AHFC rebate requirements.  Ideally, they can also install windows and doors.  They will likely be general contractors and will work closely with the more specialized trades, such as mechanical contractors and garage door installers.

A good weatherization and insulation contractor will have intimate knowledge about safe air sealing practices.  They won’t seal up the house too tight without adding mechanical ventilation.  They won’t leave your house in a condition where your combustion appliances can backdraft.

As with all contractors, check references and verify proper licensing, bonding, and insurance.

Energy Saving Solutions, LLC in Anchorage, AK.  Insulation and weatherization contractors.